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Revhead is a game filled with content and can be overwhelming when you first start. This guide will help you dive into the world of Revhead! This is not an comprehensive guide, but more aimed at helping you get a stable start and a taste of what is available.
Revhead Beginners Guide (Tips & Tricks)
The world of Revhead today, at the start of 2023, is filled with plenty of content to dive into and likely much more in the coming years. With new tracks, vehicles, design types, and a range of improvements across the board, Revhead is a game that is unparalleled in what it offers. And what does it offer? Vehicle customization. Swap parts from one vehicle type to another and performance part options (yes, you can have a lifted sedan or a supercharged drag SUV or a rusted and dented sleeper or a tow truck that can tear up the track). Spend your time racing and earning money to buy cars that are ready to win you more or spend the whole game just stripping down cars for parts or restoring them completely for a big cash intake and satisfaction of a job well done. And that’s before we talk about the exploration, side jobs, defeating ranked rivals, and putting it all on the line in pink slip races.
But you’re not here to talk about what’s available. You’re here to dive in. So let’s get to it!
Getting Started Racing and Stripping Cars
Basic Setup and First Income Stripping Vehicles
Get through the tutorial. Don’t worry about your race finish position. You’ll still get $5k after it’s done.
If you’re playing medium difficulty, Charlie has a car in the parking lot for you (hard leaves you with finding your own car in the paper).
She ain’t much, but she’s a good start. A V6 Walea in pretty good condition that is a solid basis for either building on or fixing up to restore and sell. Or strip apart and sell the parts. In fact if you’d rather hop on the track again, she’s good enough for a comfortable silver at the Backyard time trial.
You can even do the coffee run for an easy win, but you’ll be a bit short in performance for the Walea Cup.
However “Race” on the next page you can win if you’re a competent driver. It’ll be close!
Whether you do some racing or not. You can do what you want with the car. In this example we’ll just hold on to it. Feel free to fix it up, or not, and sell it if you prefer.
The meat of the game comes from the newspaper. Go to it and check out the cars on hand. They’re going to be random and you should see a variety of options. To start with, I’d suggest looking for a “high mileage” or “rusty” or “used” vehicle that’s pretty cheap. under $10k. In my case I have a high mileage Wanja Special Edition for $7,620 I’m going to buy.
Be sure to check out the stats when you click it. Most important the power. If it’s in the double digits or not showing, then the engine is completely busted and not worth buying. More about that in wrecked vehicles in a bit.
334hp is pretty solid to me. Done! If you have a car in your garage already, new ones will be in the parking lot. bring it over if it’s not already in the garage.
Ain’t she a beauty! I’m just going to strip her and scrap her. Let’s check the engine.
Good condition (65%). It’ll cost a bit, but let’s fix the block. You can fix other parts, but for now I’ll do the block. But wait a second. We’ve got a supercharger too. Let’s check that out!
Bad condition, but fixable. Which we’ll do. Superchargers are a pretty pricey item and worth fixing and selling. Or keeping if you want to put it on another car. Don’t forget you need an “SE” carburetor to fit it if you do. We’ll just sell this one. After fixing and selling both, I remove the supercharger and the engine with it’s attachments.
As you can see, we’ve got over $17k in value just for those two. I’ll sell them.
The shell gives me about $2,400. Done! I could strip more parts off, like those lovely suspension parts, the differential, the dashboard, and the transmission for particularly sizable profits. But I’m just too lazy to right now.
Maybe you’d rather put a car together and make big bucks that way. Sure, you can do that!
I’ve got a used Narnoo here that I think will do the job nicely.
Hmm, a bit more beat up than I was hoping. Usually used or high mileage cars aren’t too bad. This one has a moderate amount of body damage. But we can still make it work.
In this case the body damage will cost $7,077.88 to fix. Pretty steep, but we’ll still profit if we do it right. We give it a fresh coat of paint along the way for a couple hundred.
Going through the parts, I start fixing everything I can. All parts have to be “new,” but not necessarily 100%. So tires, which can’t be repaired, along with air and oil filters and spark plugs can all be in the 90s and still good for restoration. Actually tires can be a little lower, in the 80s in good condition and maybe lower and still be accepted.
My Narnoo needs new spark plugs, generator drive belt, carburetor, clutch, battery, horn, a dash with a new tachometer (the rest of the gauges were repairable), and rear brakes. Be sure to check the head and tail lights, sway bars, differential with its attachments, fuse box, steering and steering wheel, and the exhaust.
Time to head to the newspaper now that we know what we need! I personally don’t like to mix parts from other vehicles when possible, but I believe you can swap them out and still have a restoration if they’re new condition. In your hunt, maybe you have trouble with the newspaper or sick of hunting. Well there’s two shops to visit if you are.
Frankie’s Classics straight ahead from the garage entrance and on the other side of the road from the tire and wheel shop offers Buthanbang, Magura, Jingu, Camira, and Kanji along with generic parts.
Keith’s, which is near the Gutta Raceway carries Walea, Wanja, Narnoo, and Panania parts along with Euroa (tuner brand) and generics.
Be mindful when going to shops about the cargo capacity of your vehicle you drive over with. I’m only needing a dash and tachometer for what I need, but if you need a new engine block, wheels, or other big stuff, you might want to take a bigger vehicle.
When you get back, it’ll go into your inventory.
Once you have the restoration done (or you think you do), click the car icon on the top left and Charlie will comment about doing a bang up job on that restoration if it’s done. If you’re missing something, he’ll say it’ll be great with a little more work. Happy hunting in that case!
She’s all fixed up and a tidy profit made here! Again, feel free to keep what you want. But I’m going to sell this one. Also consider cleaning up your inventory. There have been improvement on inventory management in the game, but it still gets messy pretty fast.
Didn’t Charlie say something about towing cars to the garage if we see them? But I don’t have a tow truck!
But you can have one. You’ll either need to purchase a tow truck outright in the paper, or build one. Building your own requires 3 things: an appropriate vehicle (Narnoo UTE or a Jingu), an appropriate T-Bed, and the brand’s tow attachment.
I find a beat up Jingu. Slap on a T-Bed from the body section as well as a Jingu tow attachment also from the body section. The bed and tow attachment are two items that you CANNOT mix brands with. So purchase accordingly.
It’s worth noting the Jingu is honestly pretty weak on the stock engine. And it’s horrible for towing as such. Consider having something more beefy under the hood. I swapped in the Narnoo V8 and it’s marginally better. Throwing in some performance parts can help a good bit too.
Hopefully More To Come
This guide is a work in progress and the first I ever made. I stopped at this point some time ago and haven’t continued it, however I don’t want to just let it collect dust. So I’m releasing it as is. Hopefully the information above is valuable to at least start to get a taste of what the game has. Especially when you consider there’s a sizable world with a variety of tracks (I particularly like the quarry) and ridiculous things you can do to the vehicles. Get out there and explore!